Bangkok: Visiting The Flooded City

Thai volunteers take part in a clean-up along a major road in Bangkok 

In the weeks leading up to my Southeast Asia trip, I became a flood junkie, reading anything I could get my hands onto regarding the situation in and around the Thai capital. 

Some reports compared Bangkok to post-Katrina New Orleans, others stated that once monsoon season ended, the city would take exactly 10 days to completely drain. 

Insiders and locals I spoke to said that the most important part I could play as a traveler was to go on my trip and support the local economy.

I didn't change my plans and returned to Bangkok, a city of fascinating juxtapositions and one of Asia's most vibrant capitals. 

And I can report that its current state is a composite of everything I had read: The flooding is everywhere and nowhere.

The biggest difference I noticed on my first morning, waking up in a river-view room at the Mandarin Oriental: The Chao Phraya River was silent. 

Instead of the incessant, traffic jams of small-to-supersized boats making their way up and down and across this Thai lifeline, there were just a couple of hotel shuttles drifting quickly, and often sideways, down the gushing water. 

Other than the changed river-picture, however, everyday life continues in central Bangkok as always: buzzing, relentless. Many of the sights and temples, like the Grand Palace, Wat Po and Wat Arun are lined by sandbags, but all is dry and open for business.

Locals, including the staff of many of the luxury hotels lining the river, who cannot afford rents in central Bangkok, have, of course been hard-hit. 

Especially suburbs to the north remain badly flooded and the government is being accused of leaving these poorer neighborhoods intentionally underwater and instead focusing their efforts on keeping central Bangkok dry. 

On my first day the International Herald Tribune reported a blast set off by residents in the northern Pathum Thani district, reportedly meant to both sound protest and shift sandbags so that water would begin draining.

"Instead of saying Hello, we now say, 'How's your house?'" explained my wonderful tour guide on our walking tour my first day. 

He spoke to many of the vendors, who come from all over Thailand to sell their goods in the capital. The floods destroyed the orchid plantations of the center, but left the roses and marigold fields intact. 

The vegetable plantations of the north were also fine, while some of the rice fields, in the central west were badly damaged. 

Amazingly many locals he spoke with seemed to take everything with incredible poise, even humor. One merchant told of a housing advertisement he had seen, which stated: "Even higher-floor apartments can be conveniently reached -- by boat."

I asked my guide, who is one of the most entertaining and informed specialists I have ever toured with, whether a lot of his clients had canceled their trips in recent weeks. 

He said no, many just cut the Bangkok portion of their trips shorter. (The only noticeable change to a Bangkok itinerary is the fact that the klongs, the smaller canals, are closed off and river tours via boat are not possible.) 

Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle are not effected; nor are the islands, like Koh Samui and Phuket.

"It's wonderful to see that tourists remain supportive and continue coming here," he said. "It's so important for the local people."

And the local people remain some of the kindest, most hospitable hosts one can imagine. Whether it's the vendors at one of the sprawling food markets trying to explain their wares in broken English and a lot of pantomime, 

or the thoughtful staff at the Oriental, at every turn someone is making you feel welcome and interested in learning more about the culture. 

Hopefully the flooding situation will continue to greatly improve over the coming weeks and travelers will return in healthy numbers. I, for one, am glad to be here and catch--and support--the city at the end of this challenging, momentous time.

Some great finds on this trip: the Indian Market, a maze of color, fabrics and spices in the middle of Bangkok; the solid Golden Buddha at Wat Trimitr, a fascinating story of discovery 

(it was hidden beneath stucco for decades); and Taling Pling, a low-key Thai restaurant where the locals outnumber the visitors. 

I also returned to some of my old-time favorites, like Indian restaurant Hazara, the incredible Distill Bar a top of the State Tower and the pool oasis at the Mandarin Oriental, still the best place to recharge from Bangkok's colorful, unique vivacity.

Inner-city residents get ready as water nears

People living near the Victory Monument have been told to prepare for flooding, which could reach the area in a week.

The atmosphere in the neighbourhood is calm, but if you look around carefully you will see the changes that have occurred as the flood crisis has built.

One local resident captured the change in an account of a friend's new business line.

"Usually, she sells gift items and accessories," Kochaphan Komnanukij, a friend of a woman who sells gift items, accessories and boots at the Center One department store, told The Nation. 

When she heard that the flood waters were heading here, she prepared by wearing boots. 

Her customers asked her about her boots and Magic Pants - plastic trousers that protect your feet and legs up to your waist  so she started selling boots and Magic Pants.

"They sold out very quickly, requiring restocking two times a day; the price will depend on how bad the flooding gets."

Despite the imminent flooding, for vendors on the Rajvithi Hospital side of Victory Monument it's business as usual, with few outward signs of anything out of the ordinary.

"I can't let the news that the floods are coming affect the whole of my business," said Arissara Mapuag, owner of the Budsabong shoe store, who claimed not to be worried about the looming flood.

"I won't allow myself to be brought to a standstill by the flood crisis. It's a natural disaster, so nobody can stop it.

If the floods arrive, I think it'll give me a chance to travel to the Northern region and make merit, which I haven't done it for a long time," she said.

Although there have been transport problems, Arissara said she had been able to adapt.

"The customers are still buying shoes at my shop; there are always people travelling and changing buses here," said the shop owner.

Victory Monument's cluster of noodle shops will be affected.

"Our customers are decreasing in number, of course, but we're still selling noodles," said Nopporn Boonsanong, owner of the Anong noodle shop. 

We have a steady supplier for the ingredients, so we're ready if it floods. We've prepared a plaster floodwall in front of our shop and have raised the electricity lines."

People in many walks of life have been affected by this flood crisis. Kornkwan Vutinuntakasame, a student at Thammasat University, said her life had changed since the flood hit her home around the Ratchayothin area.

"I have had to change my plans, since the next semester has been moved from November to January," she said.

"Right now, the water level is stable around my home but I think if it reaches the level of the electricity system, it's time to evacuate; without electricity it's harder to live," she admitted.

Graeme Turnball, an Australian businessman residing in Thailand, was critical of officials, commenting: "I think now it's a political game. 

They should help people more than this. It's all propaganda out there; they try to get what they want by using the advertising."

Residents of areas near the Victory Monument are a good example of the way human beings can turn a crisis into an opportunity, provided they prepare themselves to face the problems.

BMTA: Most city buses still in service

The great majority of city buses were still running even though many parts of Bangkok have been flooded, Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA) director Opas Phetmanee said on Wednesday.

He said 80 to 90 per cent of buses were still on the roads. Services had been suspended only on a few routes which had been totally flooded.

In most cases, adjustments had been made to the routes with problems, meaning that the passengers might arrive later or earlier than usual at their destinations, he added.

Mr Opas said that even though the BMTA was not operating at full capacity it was still taking in about 10 million baht per day, up from the usual seven million to eight million baht during a school vacation.

This was probably because taxis and motorcycle taxis had increased their fares for travel in flooded areas, deterring passengers.

He said the BMTA is also still providing limited free hot bus services as usual.

Traffic police this morning closed the outbound lanes of Vibhavadi-Rangsit road in front of Samian Naree temple due to the high floodwater level, reports said.

The Kasetsart intersection on Vibhavadi Rangsit road is also inundated and impassable for small vehicles.

Another Kasetsart intersection on Phahon Yothin road is also flooded and impassable for small cars, according to the reports.

The Transport Co said interprovincial buses were avoiding flooded Vibhavadi-Rangsit road and using Samut Sakhon and Chachoengsao as gateways to the North and North East.

From the bus terminal in Chatuchak area, the northern-bound buses use the Si Rat expressway to go to Rama IX road before entering Maha Chai in Muang district and Ban Phaeo district in Samut Sakhon.

They then use a route to Nakhon Pathom’s Kamphaeng Saen district to go to Suphan Buri's Si Prachan district and other provinces in the Central Plains before going further to the North.

For the northeastern route, the buses also travel along the Si Rat expressway to the Motorway. They then enter Bang Nam Prieo and Phanom Sarakham districts in Chachoengsao before using Highway No 319 to Prachin Buri and going via Nakhon Nayok and Sara Buri to the Northeast.

In Samut Sakhon, traffic police this afternoon closed Phetkasem highway from Phetkasem Soi 50 to Krathumban district due to the high floodwater level, reports said.

The runoff rapidly flowed from Buddhmonthon Sai 4 and Khlong Thawee Wattana to flood the main road to the South in only one hour, according to the reports.

The floodwater was about 50 centimetres deep and impassable for small vehicles.