Saturday, 3 December 2011

New talk of Thaksin passport return sparks critics' fury

Renewed talk of returning a Thai passport to ousted premier Thaksin Shinawatra has sparked an outcry from his opponents who have vowed to take legal action against the government.

Thaksin: May get new passport ‘very soon
Foreign Minister Surapong Tovichakchaikul said yesterday Thailand will issue Thaksin a passport "very soon".

Tul Sitthisomwong, coordinator of the anti-Thaksin Network of Citizen Volunteers to Protect the Land, said he would seek the foreign minister's impeachment if he proceeds.

Mr Surapong shrugged off the threat and shot back that it was the foreign minister's privilege to issue or revoke passports. 

He also noted that he planned the return of the passport as a "New Year gift" for Thaksin, but the passport could be returned even sooner.

"We are examining the law and we should conclude next week. We may be able to return the passport sooner than expected," he said.

Mr Surapong insisted that Thaksin's passport had not been not revoked by a court of law or the police. It was cancelled by former foreign minister Kasit Piromya.

"So I will use my power to do whatever is not illegal under the regulations of the ministry to give the passport back to the ex-premier," he said.

Mr Tul said a fugitive convicted of serious charges should not be allowed a Thai passport. If a convict is in the country, police are duty-bound to track him down.

If a fugitive is living overseas, the Attorney-General's Office and the Foreign Ministry must cooperate to bring him back, he said.

Mr Tul pledged to seek Mr Surapong's impeachment if he went ahead with the plan to issue a passport to Thaksin, who now holds a Montenegrin passport.

Parnthep Pourpongpan, spokesman for the People's Alliance for Democracy, said the yellow shirts would not hold a mass protest against the move, as they preferred to use legal channels to counter the government.

"We will lodge a complaint against the government with the National Anti-Corruption Commission as soon as the Foreign Ministry issues a passport to Thaksin," Mr Parnthep said.

A passport applicant must report to the authority in person, in which case Thaksin would have to be arrested, he said. "The government will face a negligence charge if it fails to intercept him," Mr Parnthep added.

Democrat Party spokesman Chavanond Intarakomalyasut said the minister has to explain to the public the benefits of returning a passport to Thaksin.

The Democrat-led government revoked Thaksin's passport owing to the former premier's conviction for abuse of power. "This obviously is not a New Year's gift for the Thai people," he said. "[The people] want to see the government help them restore the country and economy after the floods."

Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra - Thaksin's sister - said yesterday she would leave the matter in the hands of the Foreign Ministry.

"I will not intervene," she said. "It's an affair the ministry has to handle as it sees fit. Any decision must be based on the principles of rule of law and equity."

Noppadon Pattama, Thaksin's legal adviser, said returning the passport should not be used to rekindle political conflicts.

Mr Noppadon said the issuing of a Thai passport would not make it any easier for Thaksin to return home.

"It is a rehabilitation process for those who were treated with injustice. I think most people know he has been mistreated," he said.

The government recently abandoned changes to a proposed royal pardon decree which could have cleared Thaksin of his abuse of power conviction and allowed him to return home. It abandoned the changes after a public outcry.

Signs of hope in Burma, Suu Kyi tells Clinton

RANGOON - Aung San Suu Kyi voiced guarded hope Friday that democracy will come to Burma as the opposition leader warmly welcomed Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to the home that was her prison for years.

In scenes unthinkable before Burma's recent reforms, Suu Kyi took Clinton by the arm and escorted her through the garden of her crumbling lakeside villa in the commercial hub Rangoon where she was locked up until a year ago.

The Nobel Peace Prize winner said she supported Clinton's trip a day earlier to Burma's remote capital Naypyidaw and believed the nation earlier known as Burma had reached a "historic moment".


Pro-democracy opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi and US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton (L) embrace after speaking to the press at Suu Kyi's residence in Yangon on December 2, 2011. Suu Kyi said she was confident about prospects for democratic reforms in Burmar, after talks with Clinton during a landmark visit.

"I am very confident that if we work together... there will be no turning back from the road to democracy," Suu Kyi said next to a beaming Clinton on a back porch surrounded by potted plants.

More needed to be done by the new military-backed government, "but we hope to get there as soon as possible", Suu Kyi added.

Clinton, who is the first US secretary of state to visit Burma in more than 50 years, nodded in agreement and said she saw "openings" during her three-day trip that "give us some grounds for encouragement".

The wife of former president Bill Clinton has spent decades hobnobbing with the world's most powerful but was visibly excited to meet Suu Kyi, repeatedly embracing the democracy champion and kissing her on the cheeks.

Clinton and Suu Kyi, two of the world's most prominent women, also met away from aides for an expansive dinner Thursday night at the US diplomatic mission whose chef prepared foods especially chosen to please Suu Kyi.

Clinton's aides said she even brought from the United States a chewy toy for Suu Kyi's small but energetic dog. Suu Kyi nonetheless gave Clinton a friendly warning that her dog was sometimes aggressive towards strangers.

Clinton on Thursday hand-delivered a personal letter from President Barack Obama that thanked Suu Kyi for her "inspiration" to people around the world and said the United States would stand by her "now and always".

Despite the warm atmosphere at their meetings, Clinton and Suu Kyi both warned of serious worries in Burma. 

Activists say anywhere from hundreds to more than 1,500 political prisoners remain jailed and that rape and forced labour remain common in ethnic enclaves torn by decades of war.

"All hostilities must cease within this country as soon as possible," Suu Kyi said.

"Whatever we do in the predominantly Burmese areas we hope will be matched by similar programmes and projects in the ethnic nationality areas. Because we are a union of many peoples and in a union of many peoples there must be equality."

Suu Kyi repeatedly urged the rule of law, demanding that all political prisoners be released and "that no more are arrested in the future for their beliefs".

The military of what was then Burma seized power in 1962 and ruled until March, when the ruling junta nominally handed power to civilians.

President Thein Sein, while a former general, has surprised both the United States and the opposition for speaking the language of reforms and initiating dialogue both with Suu Kyi and ethnic minorities.

Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy swept 1990 elections but the military junta never allowed her to take power. 

She enjoys wide support across the political spectrum in Washington and her blessing is seen as critical to any future US move to ease sweeping sanctions.

Suu Kyi did not mention sanctions but welcomed the small incentives that Clinton offered on Thursday after her talks with the government, including support for international financial institutions to assess Burma's needs.

The opposition leader has indicated that she hopes to run in by-elections early next year, in a major test for how far the government is willing to tolerate political change.

Clinton also said that the United States would begin talks on resuming work to find the remains of 600 US servicepeople left unaccounted for in World War II and consider upgrading to full diplomatic relations, which were broken off after the 1990 election.

Wrapping up her visit, the top US diplomat announced $1.2 million in new aid aimed at civil society to support microfinance, healthcare and help for the victims of landmines in the war-torn country.

Clinton said she told the country's leaders that the United States was assessing progress by the new leadership before it considers ending sanctions.

"We will match action for action, and if there is enough progress, obviously we will be considering lifting sanctions," Clinton said, but added: "We are still at the very early stages of this dialogue."

Suu Kyi gives green light to US engagement

RANGOON : Aung San Suu Kyi voiced guarded hope Friday that democracy will come to Burma as the opposition leader warmly welcomed Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to the home that was her prison for years.

In scenes unthinkable before Burma's recent reforms, Suu Kyi took Clinton by the arm and escorted her through the garden of her crumbling lakeside villa in the commercial hub Rangoon where she was locked up until a year ago.

The Nobel Peace Prize winner said she supported Clinton's trip a day earlier to Burma's remote capital Naypyidaw and believed that the country had reached a "historic moment".

"I am very confident that if we work together... there will be no turning back from the road to democracy," Suu Kyi said next to a beaming Clinton on a back porch surrounded by potted plants.

More needed to be done by the new military-backed government, "but we hope to get there as soon as possible", Suu Kyi added.

Clinton, who is the first US secretary of state to visit Burma in more than 50 years, nodded in agreement and said she saw "openings" during her three-day trip that "give us some grounds for encouragement".

The wife of former president Bill Clinton has spent decades hobnobbing with the world's most powerful but was visibly excited to meet Suu Kyi, repeatedly embracing the democracy champion and kissing her on the cheeks.

Clinton and Suu Kyi, two of the world's most prominent women, also met away from aides for an expansive dinner Thursday night at the US diplomatic mission whose chef prepared foods especially chosen to please Suu Kyi.

Clinton's aides said she even brought from the United States a chewy toy for Suu Kyi's small but energetic dog. Suu Kyi nonetheless gave Clinton a friendly warning that her dog was sometimes aggressive towards strangers.

Clinton on Thursday hand-delivered a personal letter from President Barack Obama that thanked Suu Kyi for her "inspiration" to people around the world and said the United States would stand by her "now and always".

Despite the warm atmosphere at their meetings, Clinton and Suu Kyi both warned of serious worries in Burma. 

Activists say anywhere from hundreds to more than 1,500 political prisoners remain jailed and that rape and forced labour remain common in ethnic enclaves torn by decades of war.

"All hostilities must cease within this country as soon as possible," Suu Kyi said.

Suu Kyi repeatedly urged the rule of law, demanding that all political prisoners be released and "that no more are arrested in the future for their beliefs".

The Burmese military seized power in 1962 and ruled until March, when the ruling junta nominally handed power to civilians.

President Thein Sein, while a former general, has surprised both the United States and the opposition for speaking the language of reforms and initiating dialogue both with Suu Kyi and ethnic minorities.

Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy swept 1990 elections but the military junta never allowed her to take power. She enjoys wide support across the political spectrum in Washington and her blessing is seen as critical to any future US move to ease sweeping sanctions.

Suu Kyi did not mention sanctions but welcomed the small incentives that Clinton offered on Thursday after her talks with the government, including support for international financial institutions to assess Burmese needs.

The opposition leader has indicated that she hopes to run in by-elections early next year, in a major test for how far the government is willing to tolerate political change.

Wrapping up her visit, the top US diplomat announced US$1.2 million in new aid aimed at civil society to support microfinance, healthcare and help for the victims of landmines in the war-torn country.

Clinton said she told the country's leaders that the United States was assessing progress by the new leadership before it considers ending sanctions.

"We will match action for action, and if there is enough progress, obviously we will be considering lifting sanctions," Clinton said, but added: "We are still at the very early stages of this dialogue."

In a further sign of a softening of the US stance, Clinton stepped back from a previous call for a UN-backed war crimes probe.

"We are going to support the principle of accountability and the appropriate mechanism to ensure justice and accountability will be considered," she said.

"But I think it's important to try to give the new government and the opposition a chance to try to demonstrate they have their own approach toward achieving that."

Pumps shifted to priority areas BMA targets districts that can be sealed off

Large pumps are being redeployed in areas which remain flooded as many parts of Bangkok start to recover from the disaster.

Bangkok Governor MR Sukhumbhand Paribatra said yesterday pumps were mobilised from the government and the private sector to drain floodwater from flooded communities.

The drainage started in communities which could be sealed off and water was being pumped out into nearby canals.

The operation was launched yesterday in Kosumniwet housing estate in Don Muang district, Chaeng Watthana 14 Road and Khehachumchon Thung Song Hong community in Laksi district, and Ram Intra 1-39 roads in Bang Khen district.

Floods there should disappear between Dec 5 and 14.

Similar operations in other heavily flooded areas will be launched when water levels in nearby canals drop.

MR Sukhumbhand said water could not be pumped out of Sethakit housing estate in Bang Kae district because the level of Khlong Thawi Watthana canal remained high and the housing estate was too large to be sealed off.

However, he assured all areas of Bangkok would be dry by Dec 31 as tides from the sea were not so high and the levels of canals in the capital were declining.

He said sluice gates in Bangkok would be gradually opened to release floodwater from nearby provinces in order to drain floodwater in Bangkok at the same time.

Science and Technology Minister Plodprasop Suraswadi who is assistant director of the Flood Relief Operations Command (Froc) said yesterday the government was removing big sandbags in northern Bangkok to accelerate flood drainage.

He expects the task to be finished within two weeks.

Meanwhile, a group of Pathum Thani's Lam Luk Ka residents, led by Sa-ngiam Samranrat, raised the Khlong Lam Mor Taek sluice gate to 2m from 50cm yesterday, a source said.

Pol Maj Sa-ngiam is a red shirt leader and a political office holder at the Prime Minister's Office.

The residents reportedly said they would lower the sluice gate if Bangkok's Sai Mai district and Sukhaphiban Road 5 were affected by floodwater.

The source said the city administration later lowered the Khlong Lam Mok Taek sluice gate back to 50cm.

Also yesterday, about 200 people blocked Phahon Yothin 48 Road where they live in Bang Khen district to put pressure on the BMA and the Froc to speed up drainage of floodwater which has submerged their areas for a month.

The road closure caused heavy traffic, prompting traffic police to be sent to direct traffic in the area.

The furious residents agreed to disperse at 5.30pm following negotiations with Anond Snidvongs, the Froc's water management adviser, who promised to work with the BMA to open the Khlong Lat Phrao sluice gate wider.

In Laksi district, angry residents of Chaeng Wattana 14 Road yesterday agreed to end their protest after floodwaters on their road finally receded.

The Administrative Court yesterday ordered the Froc and the BMA to set guidelines regarding the opening of Khong Maha Sawat sluice gate.

The court also rejected a request asking it to suspend the government operation to salvage Highway 340 (Bang Bua Thong-Suphan Buri) and Kanchanaphisek Road.

The salvage operation of the highway has already been completed.

Earlier, Todsiri Poolnual, a representative of flood-hit residents in Nonthaburi's Bang Bua Thong district, asked the court to stop the BMA from managing the sluice gate that affects the water levels between Bangkok and Nonthaburi.

She also sought a court order to suspend the salvage operation of Highway 340.

Mr Anond insisted the Froc would not shut down and transfer its duties to the Strategic Committee for Water Resources Management or the Strategic Committee for Reconstruction and Future Development.

Froc mulls disbanding as emergency phase ends Relief drive shifts to rehabilitation efforts

The Flood Relief Operations Command will next week consider when it should disband now that the general flood situation in most provinces has improved, Justice Minister and Froc director Pracha Promnok says.

He said the Froc will assess its flood response role next week and consider when the command can be dissolved as it now appears its primary task of emergency response is no longer necessary.

From now on, the next stage would be one of flood recovery, with a committee appointed to oversee rehabilitation and compensation measures, Pol Gen Pracha said.

He said he will meet Bangkok Governor Sukhumbhand Paribatra today along with the governors of seven provinces that remain flooded in parts to find ways to help flood victims and to speed up drainage of their communities.

Pol Gen Pracha expects Vibhavadi Rangsit Road will reopen for traffic in the next few days as almost the entire length of the road surface has dried out.

He said efforts are being made to dismantle the big bag flood barrier in tambon Lak Hok of Pathum Thani's Muang district. More heavy machinery will be brought in to help with the work.

The remaining stretch of the big bag wall at Sai Mai district and the right-hand side of tambon Lak Hok should be pulled down soon afterwards, Pol Col Pracha said.

"The general situation has now improved, although the drainage of fetid, stagnant floodwater in areas that have been flooded for a long time is a concern," he said.

MR Sukhumbhand yesterday said the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration had sent a letter to the Froc, asking for a meeting to discuss plans to raise or lower the sluice gates along Khlong Maha Sawat in an effort to ease the hardship of the flood-affected people living in the area.

The move is in compliance with an order issued by the Administrative Court.

The governor also said City Hall has raised three sluice gates higher in eastern Bangkok to help drain floodwater in Pathum Thani.

MR Sukhumbhand said authorities have raised the sluice gate at Phraya Suren canal from 1.4 metres to 1.5m, the gate at Saen Saep canal in Min Buri district from 1.3m to 1.5m and the gate at Bung Kwang canal from 1.2m to 1.3m.

Water levels in various affected canals had dropped steadily, he said.

The BMA yesterday increased its collections of waste deposited by the flooding, up from the average 8,500 tonnes a day to 12,000 tonnes.

Bangkok and provincial officials together with volunteers will start collecting waste in nine flood-affected districts this weekend, before His Majesty the King's 84th birthday on Monday, he added.

The Froc yesterday said the eastern areas of Bangkok would be back to normal early next week.

The floodwater in several areas of the east had already receded, except in a few low-lying areas.

The Froc would provide additional water pumps to these areas to rapidly drain out the water.

It is expected that the areas would be dry by this Monday, the Froc added.

Veera Wongsaengnak, chairman of the Froc's Water Draining Committee which is responsible for drying out the western part of the capital, said the draining of about 2 billion cubic metres of remaining northern runoff from the western areas would take about 20 days.

Of the total, 600 million cu/m would be managed for farm usage in nearby areas and the remaining 1.4 billion cu/m would be drained out at a rate 70 million cu/m a day.

The northern floods will be channelled out to the sea through the Tha Chin River and take 20 days to complete, Mr Veera, former deputy chief of the Royal Irrigation Department, said.

Thailand Flooding 2011: BKK Must Eats: Feasts at Jae On

Thailand Flooding 2011: BKK Must Eats: Feasts at Jae On: So where are you going first?” I’d just booked my ticket for a quick 10-day reacquaintance with my dear old friend Bangkok later this mont...

BKK Must Eats: Feasts at Jae On


So where are you going first?”

I’d just booked my ticket for a quick 10-day reacquaintance with my dear old friend Bangkok later this month (yay!), and my wife, who I’ll meet there a few days after my arrival, wanted to know which of our favorite restaurants I’ll head to first. Good question that I thought would be tough to answer but then again, it’s really not: Jae On.

When I think about authentic Thai food, I think about Jae On. When I think about quintessential outdoor dining experiences in Bangkok, I think Jae On. 

If you’ve ever been to Bangkok, you know the type of place: bare bones decor, white concrete walls, folding aluminum tables spilling out onto the sidewalk, multi-colored plastic chairs held together in spots by duct tape,

traffic fumes mingling with aromatic odors from bubbling hot pots, oscillating ceiling fans directing sticky humidity back and forth, and a legion of servers somewhere between 15 – 20 years old. 

Table side trays with buckets of ice, sweating bottles of Chang, and half-empty bottles of 100 Pipers whiskey. Maybe an old TV mounted on the ceiling tuned to a Thai soap opera.

I’ve lived on Petchaburi Road, just down the street from Jae On, on two separate occasions. Before moving to Bangkok, we always ended up at hotels near the Ratchathewi BTS Skytrain station (Asia Hotel, Reno Hotel, Samran Place), which is just around the corner from Jae On. 

It’s one of the first “local” restaurants we ever tried, and it’s one where we’ve greatly expanded our Thai food palate over the years as we’ve delved deeper and deeper into a menu chock full of what you might call Thai Food’s Greatest Hits. 

There are hundreds of places like it in and around Bangkok, but this one, obviously, has a special place in my heart. It’s packed with locals almost every night, too, so I’m clearly not the only one with an obsession (though mine very well might run deeper than most).

To that end, I can’t tell you exactly what to eat: I hate to sound cliche, but this is a place where you can truly pick and choose just about anything that sounds appealing and be satisfied. 

We've taken many Thai friends and out-of-town guests here, and everybody has raved about it. The best plan of attack is to do it Thai style: order a bunch of different plates and share. 

(It’s one of my life’s missions, however, to introduce the concept of a serving spoon to Thais when it comes to communal dining: not into everybody digging into the food with their own spoon.)

One Man’s Feast

As a starting point, however, consider my go-to order of choice, which is pictured above. It’s a lot of food for one person and is probably enough for two, but, hey–once you get started it’s hard to stop, plus this lineup is all veggies so you can’t feel too guilty if you gorge.

Okay: to the far left, a spicy white mushroom salad, served with tomatoes, onions, fresh herbs, and various other spices. 

I love the texture contrasts between the crunchy onions and the soft, squishy mushrooms, and insist it’s prepared spicy, or how Thais would normally eat it, but be prepared: like C&C Music Factory, it’s gonna make you sweat.

In the middle, my vote for the tastiest som tam in Bangkok, which again is best served as Thais would eat it as far as heat goes. That sauce  my God that sauce. I could slurp it like soup.

To the far right, stir-fried morning glory, a simple Southeast Asian standard stir-fried with garlic, oyster sauce, and super-hot chilis that retains a nice burned wok flavor. 

Again, I’ve eaten morning glory at many places in Bangkok and elsewhere in Thailand, and swear this is still the best version I’ve ever tasted. 

Complement the feast with a small rattan basket filled with sticky rice and, of course, a tall bottle (or four) of Chang beer. Jae On’s grilled squid is another favorite.

You’ll find me here on the night of December 11–just look for the table with a spread that looks exactly like the one pictured here, and the tall, sweating guy with a huge smile on his face.

We could play the “Must-Eat Food in Bangkok” game every day for years and still have plenty of culinary fodder to feature. 

In that sense, the “BKK Must Eats” series will not be comprehensive, nor will it exclusively list dishes that are “the best” of anything (though it might, from time to time). 

The modest goal of this series is simply to spotlight, somewhat randomly, damned delicious dishes in Bangkok that I’ve indulged on many occasions, and that I recommend you indulge too.

Thailand Flooding 2011: PM: Most of flooded areas dry this month

Thailand Flooding 2011: PM: Most of flooded areas dry this month: Most of the flooded areas in Bangkok, Nonthaburi, and Pathum Thani are expected to turn dry this month except farmland in low-lying areas wh...

PM: Most of flooded areas dry this month

Most of the flooded areas in Bangkok, Nonthaburi, and Pathum Thani are expected to turn dry this month except farmland in low-lying areas which may take longer than 30 days to completely drain water out, Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra said in her regularly Saturday address to the people.

She said that in the areas east of Bangkok, main roads and commercial areas had returned to be usable.

However, floodwater which had inundated Lak Hok, Don Muang, Chaeng Wattana, and Lam Luk Ka areas must be completely pumped and drained out by the end of December.

Big bags forming flood barriers in many areas which were no longer necessary would be gradually removed with consent from the local people, she said.

Water in major canals west of Bangkok were nearly normal and no longer overflowing.

Therefore, main roads and commercial areas on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya river were expected to be usable in one to two weeks from now. 

However, it might take two to three weeks to completely drain water out from some flooded areas in Phutthamonthon Sai 4, Phutthamonthon Sai 5, and Om Noy.

Major canals in Pathum Thani and Nonthaburi were still overflowing. Water was expected to be drained into the Chao Phraya river more quickly next week when the tide is low, she said.

The Flood Relief Operations Command (Froc) had coordinated with some agencies including the Royal Irrigation Department to install more water pumps to drain water out of Bang Bua Thong and Bang Yai areas so that Pathum Thani and Nonthaburi could be dry before the New Year.

The prime minister is scheduled to visit flood hit people in Ubon Ratchathani province today, and Ayutthaya tomorrow.

Many shades of Thailand

Eight million carcasses just couldn't be wrong. Neither could the average daily rubbish collection of 7000 tonnes - most of it sitting, or floating, uncollected.

It was those two statistics from a news item on the BBC overseas service news which confirmed we'd made the right decision. Our family group of four were in Pattaya, 150 kilometres south east of Bangkok, when I saw it. 

Pattaya was a substitute for Bangkok, where we were originally going for five nights for the start of our family holiday in early November.

Our timing was impeccable. Despite booking six months earlier when Malaysian Airways was offering a cheap return airfare from Auckland to Bangkok, we could hardly have chosen a worse time.

The week before our holiday was to start, Bangkok and Thailand were featuring nightly on the news, with graphic footage of ever-increasing flood levels.

Should we still go there? That was solved when, with six sleeps to go, the New Zealand Government issued a travel warning. 

"Our advice is against all tourist and other non-essential travel to Bangkok. This does not apply to transit through Suvarnabhumi airport."

So that was that. Bangkok was out and Pattaya was in - even though it appeared the Thai Government was doing everything short of lining up thousands of peasants to form an absorbent human wall to keep the flood waters out of the CBD where the tourists go. 

Flooding other parts of the capital deliberately to keep that part dry just didn't wash with us, so to speak.

Later in the trip we met other tourists, notably Australians, who'd been to Bangkok with "no worries", but it wasn't something we were comfortable doing. 

Seeing the woman from the Thai relief agency on the news giving that unbelievable statistic - eight million dead animals, or carcasses, in the flood waters covering much of the country, gave us all the reassurance we needed that we'd made the right decision.

Our journey was in two parts. Five days in Pattaya, then six nights in Koh Samui, an island full of resorts.

Part A: Pattaya

It turned out this city of 100,000-plus was the original sin city of Thailand. Not a lot has changed really. It could be described as one giant girlie bar, where you could get drinks, girls, and a few variations of both.

Never was it a hard sell, though. In the interests of research for this travel story, our group, consisting of three Browns and a Scott (a mama and poppa bear, a daughter bear and her partner, the teddy bear) did the hard yards.

Unlike some Asian tourist spots, there isn't an evil undercurrent running through the city. Generally, it was all pretty laid back, in every sense of the word, although it took some of us a while to get over seeing fat, elderly European men (mainly German) walking hand-in-hand with tiny young Thai women. Or boys.

Mind you, it did mean the German culinary tastes were well catered for and most restaurants had German dishes on their menus. 

That was fine with me, even if it did evoke the odd righteous comment from my travelling companions, along the lines of, "Nothing like going to Thailand to have a schnitzel for dinner". 

They happily ate dishes such as pad thai, a traditional Thai dish comprising chilli, noodles (seafood, optional) chilli and even more chilli.

The shopping was great with absurdly cheap deals from the hundreds of roadside stalls that had bargains galore for the shopping-inclined. 

The Pattaya hotels are more of the three- and four-star variety, with the odd luxury resort, but prices are cheap, with decent hotels ranging from NZ$50 to NZ$80 a night per person, with breakfast often included.

And the acid test for any holiday destination: Would I go back? Probably not. It was good, but once is enough.

Part B: Koh Samui

Koh, in Thai, means island, so after the city-style delights of Pattaya, we spent six nights in the island of Samui off the east coast of Kra Isthmusis, Thailand's second largest island, at 228 square kilometres and more than 50,000 people. We stayed at the Samui Resotel resort in Chaweng, the island's main beach and shopping centre.

It was wonderfully low key and, more importantly to us by this stage of the trip, quiet. Great beach at our doorstep and some delightful locals who had a ready laugh and desire to help visitors.

Compared with Phuket, where the only motivation for doing anything is price gouging and ripping off tourists, Samui was sheer bliss. 

Prices, apart from the accommodation, were cheaper than Pattaya. We swam in the ocean which was like swimming in a pool - such was the warmth and the calm, or the hotel pool, complete with swim-up bar.

The food, for those chilli- inclined companions, was absurdly cheap and declared delicious. I enjoyed the Indian food, and there were plenty of Italian and German dishes to cater for more sensible tastes.

Daughter and teddy bear hired a motor bike, to push the number of those machines on the island past the one million mark, and easily did a tour of the island in a day, without incident and insurance.

Regulations and the attendant barriers to free trade that exist in the Western world are virtually unheard of in much of Thailand. 

You want a bike, a car, a taxi, a girl, a boy, a room, a meal, a drink, then whoever you are talking to will happily rent you pretty much all of those things. Your only regulatory requirement is to have the required amount of money.

To sum up, if you want a relaxing, get-away-from-it island holiday, Samui is the place to go to. Forget Phuket and some of the other more high-profile destinations, Samui beats them.

Just don't fly Malaysian Air. Choose an airline that has crew who believe in radical service philosophies such as serving drinks, edible food and catering for the passengers, rather than ensuring they can sleep for the maximum amount of time.

Perils of travel
  • If there's one thing that puts people off travelling to the northern hemisphere it is the amount of time it takes to get there.
  • Nothing worse than arriving exhausted and taking days to get over it, just before it's time to fly home again.
  • Times are all New Zealand time.
  • Well, I'm happy to share this tip with travellers, that may make it easier - don't fly on Malaysian Airlines
  • Our happy little group of four all agreed on one thing - it would take a fair bit before we trusted them again. Let me explain.
  • WEDS: 1pm, we drive from New Plymouth to Auckland, have dinner with family members then drive to airport.
  • WEDS: 10pm, arrive Auckland airport for 12.25pm departure, only to see the words, "rescheduled, now leaving 3.10am".
  • THURS: 4.10am, we leave for Kuala Lumpur.
  • THURS: 3pm, arrive in Kuala Lumpur, fortunately in time for connecting flight to Bangkok on another Malaysian airline flight. What was to be a six-hour stop is now two and a half hours.
  • THURS: 5pm, approaching the designated boarding gate a security woman asks us where we are going. We say to gate 23 to catch the flight to Bangkok. "It's cancelled, not enough passengers," she tells us.
  • THURS: 8pm, we catch the next Malaysian Airlines flight to Bangkok.
  • THURS: 10.30pm, we finally arrive at Bangkok, after circling for 30 minutes.
  • THURS: 11pm, pre-paid shuttle arrives to drive us to Pattaya, 150km from Bangkok on an excellent highway. Everything goes smoothly for an hour, then, along with what seems like every other car ever sold in Thailand, the police stop the traffic. 
  • Black limos are at the front, but the traffic is backed up for kilometres as we wait. Turns out it had something to do with the King, our driver tells us. After 35 minutes we're off again.
  • FRI: 1.55am, we arrive at our hotel. The two rooms with queen- sized beds we booked aren't available, but they have two twin rooms. It figures.